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  1. #1
    Wonders How Big It Is piratius's Avatar
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    Default Brad's Easy "1 Bend" Custom Header How-To!

    Ok! Posting this here for WPH, who was asking about the custom exhaust. PLEASE READ EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU MAKE ANY CUTS!

    PART #1 - Primary!

    You need to buy ONE U-Bend to make the same exhaust I have on my bike. Then, any exhaust with a 1.75 or 2" inlet can work! You'll also need an adapter with a 1.75" ID on one side, and a 2.0" OD on the other side. Walker/Dynomax #41946 SHOULD be the right part number, but I'm not sure!

    Start off with this:


    A dynomax #42395. It's a 1.75" Diameter, 6" Radius U-Bend. It was practically MADE for the blast!

    So. The first thing you do is make Cut #1. This basically cuts the U bend into two J's. Get this RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BEND! If you don't, things won't line up. If it's a teeeeeny bit off, you might be ok. To get the mark in the middle, make a guess mark with a pencil on the inside of the bend. Measure the distance from the mark to the inside edge of one of the legs. Measure from the mark to the other leg. If they're identical, your mark is in the middle. If not, adjust and try again! When you get it right, cut it! Make sure you clean up the edges of the cut with a file, it'll be important later.

    EDIT: Another, more better way to get your mark right in the middle! Put a piece of masking tape or blue painters tape on the ground. Stand the U bend up on it's legs on the tape, and trace the inside of each leg. Measure the distance between the two marks, divide by two, and make your "middle mark" between them. Then, use a plumb (piece of kite string with a fishing weight, etc), and hang it from the side of the pipe. Adjust side-to-side until the weight is centered perfectly over the mark in the middle. Mark the pipe, and there's your center!

    Next, make Cut #2. You want this to end up so you have 1" of straight tubing after the bend stops at Point C. There are usually clamp marks from the mandrel on the inner side of the tube. Go 1" past those clamp marks, mark the tubing, and cut. You'll need that extra 1"!

    Lastly, DON'T MAKE CUT #3! DO NOT CUT #3 yet!

    Ok, got it? DO NOT MAKE Cut #3!

    Now let's look at our adapter.


    Take your adapter and take the smaller end. Verify that it JUST will slip over the end of the header pipe at point C. Does it? Good! Now. Make Cut #1 so that piece A is between .5" and .75" long. Measure your stock exhaust to see how far away from the end the snap ring seats - this is how long you want section A! I don't remember the measurement offhand, so please CHECK BEFORE YOU CUT!

    Ok. Now you have Section A, which is a ring about .5-.75" wide, that will just slip over the end of the header pipe. I want you to DRILL FOUR HOLES around the circumference of this ring. Choose something like .25", and make sure the holes are CENTERED! If they're too close to an edge, the next step can ruin everything.

    Slip your ring over the end of the Header Pipe at Point C (Where you left 1" of straight pipe. Oh, how thoughtful of you!). You're going to WELD Ring A to the header pipe using the holes you drilled. If you try to weld at either end, you'll booger up the sealing surface at the head, or you'll booger up the seating surface for the retention snap ring. It should look like this!

    And one more!


    Good! Now, put the snap ring from the stock exhaust on, and slip the football shaped exhaust flange over point A. You're going to bolt this up to the motor. LOOSELY PLEASE! You need to be able to rotate and test fit this, so don't go crushing it down! You also do NOT need a gasket in place at this time. If you do, when you spin/move the header, you're likely to muck it up.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Part 2 - Secondary!

    So, what you have so far should look like this: End B has the ring welded on, a snap ring installed, and the stock football flange over all of that.


    What we're going to try to get to in the next step, is this: Welding End D to End A, after cutting and rotating.


    But WHOA THERE COWBOY! You're not ready for that yet. Remember how I said not to make Cut #3 earlier? No? You cut it anyways? Well, sucks to be you. You shouldn't have done that! Ok. Loosely attach the header to the motor with the football flange. You want to be able to rotate the pipe, but tight enough so it's not flopping all over the place when you bump it. Now, hold the next piece of pipe so that End D is lined up with with End A. What? It won't fit because the floor's in the way? Damn! Well, I guess we'll have to cut it now. Hold the pipe so that the curved end is on the floor, and the straight end is sticking up. Make a rough Cut #3 at this time.

    Now you can hold the second piece up under the primary tube, and rotate it to get the outlet centered up underneath the motor, and snug up the football flange just enough to keep it from moving. You're going to hold the second piece alongside the first, so that end D is (MEASURE DISTANCE) from the bottom of the motor. Mark and Make Cut #3!

    Now that you have made "final cut #3", hold end D up to the primary coming off the motor. You'll need to make a slight adjustment to the angle, as things change a little when you chop a few inches off a pipe. Then, rotate the secondary pipe so that the outlet ( Point B ) is pointing STRAIGHT BACK to the rear tire.

    RECAP: As of right now, the primary should be attached to the motor, and adjusted so that when the secondary pipe is held up, it is centered under the motor (left to right). The Secondary pipe should then be rotated so that the outlet ( Point B ) is pointing straight back to the rear tire.

    Tack Weld these two pipes together. Go take a break. Seriously. If you're in a rush, you'll botch it up. Take 5 or ten minutes, stretch, lay down in the sun, drink a soda, whatever. Come back, and check this again. You want it centered up under the motor (left to right) and pointing straight back at the rear tire. Any bit off here will be magnified when you put the muffler on!

    If it still looks good, weld that sucker! Now you should have something like this:


    Look familiar? Awesome!

    The next step is to weld some of the excess pipe from cut #3 (or from Cut #2, whatever) to the end at point B (Which should now be UNDER THE MOTOR). You'll have to make a slightly off-angle cut to keep the pipe straight and level. Make the cut, tack weld it in place, and then triple check it! When done, it should look like this:


    Ok. Now you've basically completed your race header! The last thing will be to take a piece of flat sheet steel, and make a bracket. I just cut a rough pentagon shape out (think of a kid's drawing of a house - "square" bottom, with a pointy roof), and hold it up to where the stock front exhaust mount is. Drill a mounting hole, and bolt it to the motor (loosely!). Bend it so that it fits snugly up against the header. Weld that sucker on!

    It should look like this!


    You can leave it like this if you like to be an annoying jerk and run straight pipes. It'll sound like butt, and kill your low end torque, but to each their own! If you want to install a muffler, please see part 3!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Q&A's/FAQ's:

    Q: I made Cut #3 too soon, and now my header hits the bottom of the motor, what do I do?
    A: You can either buy a new bend, and make a new Cut #1, and then cut #3 to fit, or you can weld the excess from cut #3 back on, then cut it in the right spot

    Q: When I cut the ring off the adapter, it won't fit over the header at point C! Help!
    A: You need a tailpipe expander. Put the ring over, and gently turn it until it's tight. Then tighten it a little bit more. Take the ring off and test fit. Repeat until snug! You want this to be snug without having to hammer it on.

    Q: When I cut the ring off the adapter, it's too loose! Help!
    A: You need to expand the end of point C with the tailpipe expander. See above.

    Q: I have some other question that is irrelevant to the thread or conversation, but I think you know the answer!
    A: That's not a question.

    Q: I followed your guide, and made a header for my Blast. I also saved hundreds over buying an inferior exhaust from the intrawebs! How can I ever repay you?
    A: Donate to the site! It keeps the place running and allows Jet-Lee to continue to improve and be awesome!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Part #3 - Muffler!

    Mufflers.

    You want a muffler? I got a muffler for 'ya! I really really really recommend the Supertrapp Elite S/C. They're built like a tank and make GREAT POWER & TORQUE (I've hit tons of speed bumps and it's just slightly dented!). Plus, they're available with a 1.75" inlet, as well as a 2.0" Inlet. When I tried to buy mine, no one had the 1.75" in stock, so I went with the 2.0" model. You will want to buy 12 additional discs for the supertrapp mufflers. 18 total is the minimum you'll need for a stock Blast, 24 if you want more top end and/or have other mods!

    If you get a 1.75" model, it should slip right over the end of the header we made in parts #1 & #2. You'll need to cut the header down (length) to fit, but it'll work. If you're a smart one and bought the muffler before you started this project (because you read the thing at the top that said read everything before you make any cuts, right!?!?!), you can get the length of cut #3 perfect so that the muffler tucks up under the bike as close as possible to maximize ground clearance. Nobody likes to scrape going over speed bumps!

    If you got a 2" model, well, you'll have more trimming to do!

    Take your Walker adapter we used in Part #1 of this series. Fit the larger end inside the muffler. It slips in, but there's a lot of extra 2" pipe that we don't need! Measure how much, and trim the large end until the "bump" of the adapter is even with the inlet flange on the muffler. One down, one to go!

    Now, verify that the small end slips over the end of the header before you cut any more. I'd hate for you to get this far and have something not work. If you got the header all assembled, it should be fine. But check again!

    Aiight. Now. Put the big end back in the muffler. Hold the muffler up so that the discs on the back clear the rear wheel, and the muffler clears the bottom of the motor. Mark the header EVEN WITH THE MIDDLE OF THE ADAPTER. This is important. You don't want a Butt-Weld with something this heavy on it. You want to CUT the Header, then slip the adapter over the end, verify the fit, and then TACK WELD the adapter in place. Use your tailpipe expander inside the header to make sure they're really tight, then weld that sucker up hard. That joint (where the muffler will be mounted) shouldn't be able to fail.

    Lastly is mounting the muffler. Most supertrapp's come with a round band-clamp that you can mount it with. Only problem is that you can't. There's nowhere to mount it to!

    Actually, there is. If you take a long piece of 1/4" threaded rod, there's a hole where the stock exhaust mounted you can feed the rod through, through the band for the Supertrapp, and out the other side. You'll have to get a nut, lock washer, and regular washer on each side of the muffler band clamp if you don't want it to vibrate loose, as well as a washer, lock washer, and nut on the outside on each side. I don't have any pictures of it, but it's not impossible to figure out. If I can get any pictures, I'll share them soon!
    Last edited by piratius; 09-09-2014 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Updated part information

  2. #2
    Racer WPH's Avatar
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    Really good! this is going to come in handy.

    Sticky request - just for the convenience

  3. #3
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Bravo! - very nice - what I'd like to see some day is a continuous radius header into a Suppertrapp - besides mine - a 1.75" one - that would be a way cool set up as well. However, this set up is brilliant because there are no hard angles - like in the V&H - which slows the escape velocity and causes reversions. Totally like this system for it's ease of creation, performance usability, and the fact that it looks very good as well. Bravo!!
    EZ

  4. #4
    ...with a little bit of tongue I B Buellin's Avatar
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    I agree sticky would be great!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by I B Buellin View Post
    I agree sticky would be great!
    I already did...
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  6. #6
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Yeah - he beat me to it - I accidentally unstuck it and had to re-stick it - lol
    EZ

  7. #7

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    How for you to make me one??? Just the pipe....

  8. #8
    Wonders How Big It Is piratius's Avatar
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    Paul, I'd normally take on an offer like this. However, at the moment I'm swamped between work, family, and personal stuff.

    If I can get some stuff taken care of and get my garage back in order in the next week or two, I'll let you know. The charge would be materials and time. I don't have a spare snap ring or football flange, but I can get them if you want new stuff. Header (or race/strait pipe, whatever you want to call it) would come unpainted and full length.

  9. #9
    Racer WPH's Avatar
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    Would be interested in your service as well.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by piratius View Post
    Paul, I'd normally take on an offer like this. However, at the moment I'm swamped between work, family, and personal stuff.

    If I can get some stuff taken care of and get my garage back in order in the next week or two, I'll let you know. The charge would be materials and time. I don't have a spare snap ring or football flange, but I can get them if you want new stuff. Header (or race/strait pipe, whatever you want to call it) would come unpainted and full length.
    Hey I totally understand the most important family stuff and other projects...
    BUT, if you do find a little time to take this on it would be greatly appreciated...Seems like a better idea than buying one off the shelf and to be able to use whatever muffler you want...
    Yes,go with the new stuff as it would work without fiddling around with used bent flange...Yes,the header would be good so that I can add a muffler to it..Or if you have a line on a decent muffler thats priced right...
    Let me know if you need some money to buy anything up front,or a deposit,ect...Not a problem...I just don`t have a welder or a place to do this stuff...
    Thanks a lot...
    Paul...

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