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  1. #21
    The Boss
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    So my triple trees were crooked, but I could not see anything wrong in the straightness of the forks. So I turned the bars to lock and gave the wheel a couple good kicks. It's all straight again!



    I need a big allen wrench so I can loosen the trees and realign it properly.
    Last edited by Jet-Lee; 03-18-2014 at 02:34 AM.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  3. #22
    Wonders How Big It Is piratius's Avatar
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    How did you tell the forks were crooked?

  5. #23
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    Riding straight, look down and the triples were turned a hair to the left.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  7. #24
    Racer styxnpicks's Avatar
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    Bikes probably been on its side. Any time a bike goes down you really have to loosen the trees and un tweek forks
    Buell XBlast: NRHS Xb Stage 2 lite, 515 10.5:1, .551 cam, Daytona Twin 1005s-Ex, Vance Hines, Crossroads Fork Brace + Rearsets. Pirelli Rubber
    Buell XB9r: Race ECM/Muffler. K&N

  9. #25
    Racer styxnpicks's Avatar
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    your missing a relay cover and the oil cooler scoop. also theres a weird bracket on the right side scoop. the kickstand spring setup isn't stock. and you might as well finish the job and take that last bit of belt cover off.... OH make sure you have the airbox nipple:
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    and cut holes in the airbox top if they arn't already there that nipple is worth POWER:
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    those dyno's are both race ecm xb9's before and after the airbox swap

    your idle speed is a little low. should be between 1000-1100

    OH.. and don't forget to setup the suspension for your weight
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    Last edited by styxnpicks; 03-18-2014 at 12:15 PM.
    Buell XBlast: NRHS Xb Stage 2 lite, 515 10.5:1, .551 cam, Daytona Twin 1005s-Ex, Vance Hines, Crossroads Fork Brace + Rearsets. Pirelli Rubber
    Buell XB9r: Race ECM/Muffler. K&N

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    Bikes probably been on its side. Any time a bike goes down you really have to loosen the trees and un tweek forks
    It's obviously been down. Frame seems and feels intact, just that the wheel was tweaked. Left handlebar is bent down a little and the clutch lever knob is gone. The PO said he didn't do it, and I semi-believe him because none of his old-ish paint is scratched on that side.

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    your missing a relay cover and the oil cooler scoop.
    Yup. I might have the relay cover on RB that I can rob.

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    also theres a weird bracket on the right side scoop.
    Already gone. There was also one on the oil cooler, removed now as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    the kickstand spring setup isn't stock.
    I noticed. I have to hold the kickstand out as I set the bike over. Totally sucks. I've glanced around, I need to get the part numbers and get the right hardware ordered.

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    and you might as well finish the job and take that last bit of belt cover off....
    Huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    OH make sure you have the airbox nipple:
    and cut holes in the airbox top if they arn't already there that nipple is worth POWER:
    those dyno's are both race ecm xb9's before and after the airbox swap
    I haven't taken the airbox cover off yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    your idle speed is a little low. should be between 1000-1100
    See above, so I haven't found the idle speed knob yet. This is the reason I haven't yet re-flashed to stock because I can't do a TPS reset.

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    OH.. and don't forget to setup the suspension for your weight
    My forks are showing 4 lines, I'll pull it out a couple. How do I keep it from having so damned much dive when I touch the brakes???

    I'm also getting a real box of rocks sound around 1500rpm. Normal, or no?

    Note all compression and rebound settings are # of turns out from maximum.
    So is "maximum" all the way left or all the way right? My mind tells me "maximum" is turn it left, but left is also "out", so how can I go "out" from "maximum"? I'm confused.
    Last edited by Jet-Lee; 03-18-2014 at 02:15 PM.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  13. #27
    Racer styxnpicks's Avatar
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    compression and rebound is turns out from all the way clockwise right.
    once you get the preload set right leave it alone and focus on adjusting the compression and rebound. once its setup right dive wont be as bad but it'll still be there. My bike had some stupid stiff spring in the rear when I got it and it wanted to throw my rear end over the front every bump I hit. now that I have a softer spring with proper sag my bike feels a lot more planted

    there's still belt guard under the swingarm.

    tps adjuster screw is on the left side of the bike under the frame behind the forks between the big scoop and cylinder it'll be a weird nubbin poking out
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    box of rocks is probably the primary
    Last edited by styxnpicks; 03-18-2014 at 02:27 PM.
    Buell XBlast: NRHS Xb Stage 2 lite, 515 10.5:1, .551 cam, Daytona Twin 1005s-Ex, Vance Hines, Crossroads Fork Brace + Rearsets. Pirelli Rubber
    Buell XB9r: Race ECM/Muffler. K&N

  15. #28
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    Thanks a lot Styx! I'd read here for my initial suspension settings.
    The key is keeping most of the bike's weight on the front wheel by dialing up rear spring preload, with just enough up front to keep the fork from bottoming. Unbolting the seat (after peeling up the edge of the foam, yick!) with a Torx key from the abbreviated tool kit reveals a ramped adjuster set on the second (of seven) preload settings, with compression and rebound screws dialed out 1.5 turns. The fork preload adjusters come with four (of seven lines) showing, with compression and rebound screws unwound 1.5 turns from maximum. Thus set, the Firebolt should work for an average 140-175 pound rider possessed of average skills on average roads
    I did my fork comp/rebound totally ass-backwards then.

    For 175-ish, front should be 5.5 lines, 1.5 turns comp/rebound and the rear should be #3 and 1.5/1.25 comp/rebound ... then adjust from there. Ok, that'll probably fix my dive issue a LOT!

    Quote Originally Posted by styxnpicks View Post
    box of rocks is probably the primary
    He did mention having changed the shoe. I'll check the tensioner bolt.
    Last edited by Jet-Lee; 03-18-2014 at 02:38 PM.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  17. #29
    Racer styxnpicks's Avatar
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    stick close to the factory recommended and you'll be aight. there are some "aggressive" and "track" setup recommendations but really most people don't need to venture too far from the stock setup. basically set the preload for proper sag and set the comp/rebound to recommended and adjust rebound till the front feels right.

    - - - Updated - - -

    what tires are on it right now?
    Buell XBlast: NRHS Xb Stage 2 lite, 515 10.5:1, .551 cam, Daytona Twin 1005s-Ex, Vance Hines, Crossroads Fork Brace + Rearsets. Pirelli Rubber
    Buell XB9r: Race ECM/Muffler. K&N

  19. #30
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    I dunno, lol. I'll go look at break.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

    Click here to enlarge
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    2003 Blast (Blue), 2001 XBlast (Rex), 2007 XB9R Firebolt (Bolt)

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