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  1. #1
    Gold Member mik's Avatar
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  2. Default rpm vs speed calculations

    I'm trying to get an approximation of what RPM's I'm at in each gear based on speeds.

    I have the following information:
    final drive ratio 2.96:1

    1st 2.69
    2nd 1.85
    3rd 1.43
    4th 1.18
    5th 1.00

    Tire size 120/80/16

    I've tried some calculators, such as (http://www.car-videos.net/tools/spee...B1=Recalculate)

    But I end up with some pretty ridiculous numbers for speed. I top out (and so does everybody else apparantly) in 1st gear at around 30-33 or something. I find it hard to believe I'm only revving to 3500rpms at redline (plus I know the redline is 6800).

    Do I have the transmission ratios wrong? The numbers I found in the manual are even worse, they have 1st gear listed at 12.74 or something like that. That gives me a top speed in 1st gear of ~12mph.

    These are with calculators I've used accurately with cars many times. What's diff now? Do I need to know the primary ratio as well?

    I'm basically trying to figure out what speeds I'm needing to be at to be in my powerband. I can feel it for the most part, but I don't like not knowing the numbers.


    edit: Ok, so I found the Primary Drive ratio is 1.6:1 and I multiplied that and the final drive together. That comes up with some more realistic numbers. Do these all seem pretty accurate here:

    Code:
    1000	2000	3000	4000	5000	6000	7000
    5.50	11.01	16.51	22.01	27.52	33.02	38.53
    8.00	16.01	24.01	32.01	40.01	48.02	56.02
    10.35	20.71	31.06	41.41	51.77	62.12	72.47
    12.55	25.09	37.64	50.19	62.73	75.28	87.83
    14.80	29.61	44.41	59.22	74.02	88.83	103.63
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  3. #2

    Default

    Looks about right. Too early for me and math though...

  4. #3
    The Boss
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    Jet-Lee's Avatar
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  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mik View Post
    (plus I know the redline is 6800).
    Stock is 6500.

    Code:
    1000	2000	3000	4000	5000	6000	7000
    5.50	11.01	16.51	22.01	27.52	33.02	38.53
    8.00	16.01	24.01	32.01	40.01	48.02	56.02
    10.35	20.71	31.06	41.41	51.77	62.12	72.47
    12.55	25.09	37.64	50.19	62.73	75.28	87.83
    14.80	29.61	44.41	59.22	74.02	88.83	103.63
    That seems about right, as that's pretty close to where mine hits at 7k. Have yet to top out 5th (issues at the moment).
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  6. #4

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    Remind me how the your limiter is higher?

  7. #5
    The Boss
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  8. Default

    Dyna/Ultima ignition (not stock).
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  9. #6

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    Hey jet lee, how difficult was putting in an aftermarket ignition? And where could i find one?

  10. #7
    The Boss
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  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny_Ga View Post
    Hey jet lee, how difficult was putting in an aftermarket ignition? And where could i find one?
    It ALL depends on which ignition you get. I believe the SE and Twin Tec are direct bolt-in replacements.

    I tend to be non-conventional and went with an Ultima. NOT direct bolt-in, but still very easy (for me).

    Ask any questions about the Ultima here:
    http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19793

    I'll be happy to answer.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  12. #8
    Kisses dead mice stang181's Avatar
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  13. Default

    The se is a direct bolt in still using the tps and enrichener. The twin tec you need the ignition coil that goes with it and it does not alow the use of the tps and enrichener and youll need a twin timing cup that needs modifying. Also with the twin tec theres some grinding involved to the cam cover to be able to swing the ignition in the nose cone

    I forgot that the SE ignition requires a low primary resistance (0.4-0.6 ohm's) coil Which was a change in one of the production years not sure what year though. Ez would know that question and if Im right about that lol

  14. #9
    The Boss
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  15. Default

    The Ultima is probably like the Twin Tec install, then. if you're already re-indexing the timing cup, you don't need to modify the cam cover.

    I think probably the easiest non-bolt in, and cheapest, would be the Ultima. For $157 it comes with everything you need, except the programmer. I can make the adapter and the software is free.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  16. #10
    Kisses dead mice stang181's Avatar
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  17. Default

    Yeah the Ultima is a good choice then! I just like the SE so much cause I just had to bolt it on and wire it up with the original ignition connector.
    When I tried out the twin tech thats what I did! Indexed the cup a little different then the directions showed so I dident have to grind because it just dident seem possible to not go through to the bushing in the boss and it worked but the ignition modual went bad.
    Even in the directions for the twin tec it looked like they grinded through to the bushing and that causes oil leakage. (not good) I dont understand why they dont just have you index the cup so no grinding is nessesary

    I lucked out and found a guy selling SE moduals on ebay so thats why I bought that one and that was before you went for the Ultima but I still like the fact the SE uses the tps and enrichener

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