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  1. #1
    The Boss
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    Default Ultima Programmable Ignition on a Blast

    Thought I would start my ignition thread.

    The Hi-4 idea has been scrapped.

    I've sorted through a lot of different single-fire options and settled on this for the simple reason of: COST

    Everyone (google search) seems to agree that this is a clone of the Dyna 2000i module from Dynatek. Seeing as I'm getting the module, a single fire coil, plug wires, timing cup, and some other miscellaneous odds and ends for $157 shipped, I have to try it out.

    It *should* be similar wiring to the Hi-4, if not exactly save for the different color wires. It can run with or without VOES (I'll be without for the time being). It has race mode, adjustable rev limit (500rpm increments without software, 50rpm increments with), dead strokes, and adjustable advance curves. Everything can be finely tuned with the software and cable either from Ultima or Dynatek. People have programmed the Ultima using the Dynatek software, and visa versa...which furthers the theory it's a clone.

    Seeing as I made all my bad mistakes with the Hi-4, this should be a pretty quick swap-in. It will go in with the new cams and springs as soon as it gets to my house. Cams and springs are waiting (for a spring compressor, lol).

    This is what I got: p/n 53-660



    This is where I got it


    Best thing to do for indexing the timing cup (if needed, check it first): Flatten the notch. Make sure your engine is at TDC. Put the timing cup on the cam and bolt it tight. Temporarily install your nosecone module and rotate it back and forth. Remove the module and adjust the timing cup. Keep going back and forth until your static timing is correct. Then mark your cup for the notch and punch it. I used a fat flathead and just hit it with a hammer right there on the bike. I recommend using a different cam so you're not smacking your journals.

    *Notice in the first link, the software says "2Ki-P", that's the Dynatek software. Have to buy seperately, but Jireh has it for $87.95, p/n 53-646
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  2. #2

  3. #3
    The Boss
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    Default

    Don't worry, I'm working on the write up, with pics and measurements...
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  4. #4
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    Will update tomorrow with pics. Installation is VERY similar to the Hi-4...

    1. Remove seat, gas tank and carburetor (carb for easier access for wiring).
    2. Remove spark plug and timing window cover. Set engine to TDC.
    3. Remove stock ignition module and timing rotor.
    4. Feed Ultima wires through cam cover.
    5. Connect white wire from Ultima to white (w/ black stripe) wire on stock wiring.
    6. Connect white wire from Ultima to +12v on coil (center post).
    7. Connect blue wire from Ultima to coil signal to be used.
    8. Connect pink wire from Ultima to coil signal that is not used.
    9. Mount ignition coil.
    10. Using delivered twin timing cup, flatten out the indexing notch.
    11. Mount cup with flat notch, then module, adjust timing. Keep going back and forth until your timing is perfect. Only then, make the new notch in your timing cup.
    12. Mount timing rotor.
    13. Mount Ultima Ignition Module. Set timing according to: Video Link - Unit will sit almost perfectly sideways.
    14. Dip switch settings are below. Mine are set as OFF/OFF/OFF/ON/ON/ON
    15. Install sparkplug and connect plug wire to terminal corresponding to the Ultima blue wire.
    16. Take 2nd spark plug wire, remove end boot, smash metal, bolt to a good ground. Connect to terminal corresponding with Ultima pink wire. (You have to ground the unused signal or you will fry your ignition module/coil)
    17. Install carburetor, tank and seat.
    18. Fire it up!

    Link to Ultima instructions

    Your ignition no longer triggers the auto-enricher. To reconnect the AE, ground one of the two yellow wires, then attach the other to a switched +12v source.

    As far as I know, you have no more safeties (bas/kickstand/neutral). The safeties work by providing a ground to the stock ignition module. This module grounds itself through the cover/case, hence no safeties. (except clutch safety as it's on the starter circuit, not the running circuit)

    Dip Switch settings
    1 - VOES
    OFF - Normal (with or w/o VOES)
    ON - Retard mode (for use with nitrous or forced induction)

    2/3 - Advance Curves (no voes input)
    OFF/OFF - Curve 1 - 34º max at 2500 rpm
    ON/OFF - Curve 2 - 32º max at 2700 rpm
    OFF/ON - Curve 3 - 29º max at 2800 rpm
    ON/ON - Curve 4 - 26º max at 3000 rpm

    4/5 - Rev Limit
    OFF/OFF - 5500 rpm
    ON/OFF - 6000 rpm
    OFF/ON - 6500 rpm
    ON/ON - 7000 rpm

    6 - Firing Mode
    OFF - Dual Fire (fire both spark plug wires every time (no))
    ON - Single Fire (alternate spark between front and rear cylinders(yes))
    Last edited by Jet-Lee; 07-26-2013 at 06:42 PM.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

    Click here to enlarge
    Left to Right:
    2003 Blast (Blue), 2001 XBlast (Rex), 2007 XB9R Firebolt (Bolt)

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  5. #5
    needs a camera man hzuiel's Avatar
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    My first question is how is it running? Without any engine modification work, would this unit be of any benefit on a stock engine?

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  7. #7
    The Boss
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    It is running GREAT!

    Use on a stock engine? I really don't know. It's advertised as having a 45kV spark, I don't know what stock is.

    I'm using it for its programmability to get the most out of my modifications. My cams require me to raise the rev limiter, and this fit the bill.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

    Click here to enlarge
    Left to Right:
    2003 Blast (Blue), 2001 XBlast (Rex), 2007 XB9R Firebolt (Bolt)

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  8. #8
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Probably, but you would have to sooner or later go to voes system, and keep the rpms at 6500.
    EZ

  9. #9
    The Boss
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    I'm running no VOES and it feels pretty good. Idles good, great throttle response ... don't really plan to put one on.

    On a stock setup though, I'd be on the fence about the VOES, but definately set the limiter down to 6500.

    Constantly updating the above how-to post. Pics will come later, at work at the moment.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

    Click here to enlarge
    Left to Right:
    2003 Blast (Blue), 2001 XBlast (Rex), 2007 XB9R Firebolt (Bolt)

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  10. #10
    The Boss
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    Running Curve 4, I have AWESOME mid range power, but my top end is lacking. Curve 1 is the opposite, my top end is awesome, it just takes a lil bit to get there.

    At least it's easy to switch.

    I'm sure the new filter and getting a new exhaust will help.

    Just an observation.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

    Click here to enlarge
    Left to Right:
    2003 Blast (Blue), 2001 XBlast (Rex), 2007 XB9R Firebolt (Bolt)

    Do you like the forum? Do you appreciate the input and community support? Consider donating to help keep us alive and growing! Click here to donate!
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