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  1. #11


    Quote Originally Posted by krjoseph View Post
    2. XB shifter hardware. Tap and drill primary cover. (I think the best option, but didn't feel like opening my primary now. Will go to XB shifter when I tackle some work inside the primary).
    You do not need to open the primary to mount the XB shifter. That little lump is really thick, I drilled into it about 3/4" without going through. The XB bolt needs about 5/8" to mount into. I had drained the primary just in case, but it was unnecessary.

    Total price of the all the necessary XB parts is about $110. Parts needed:
    Lever Mount Bolt, CA0015.02A8
    Bushing, N0599.02A8A
    Shift Pedal Assembly, N0630.02A8A
    Shift Lever, Engine, T0225.02A8
    Shift Linkage Assembly, N0320.02A8
    Linkage Screw (2), AN1006.2CXZB
    Lever Screw, AN1009.2CXZB

    BTW: You need a 5/16-18 tap for the mount hole

  2. #12

  3. #13


    Soon, the brake side is still kicking my ass. I could show off the shift side, but I'd like to show it all at once. Rigging up the brake master/switching the brake line seems to be a little more error than trial at the moment. It's quite the government contract here, over budget and behind schedule. Was planning on getting it out this weekend, but looks like maybe next, at the earliest....

  4. #14
    Gearhead krjoseph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
  5. Default

    What troubles are you having specifically? Also, some pics of that problem area might help us trouble shoot. I didn't have much problem hooking mine up. Are you trying to put them in place with the line/master/reservoir still all attached to each other? I disconnected all those and it made life much easier. Just had to refill and bleed when I was done.

  6. #15


    Thanks for the offer, but it was really just a pile of minor issues that needed to be addressed (screw lengths, etc...). Got most of the bike put back together yesterday, only 1 banjo fitting (on order) and a brake bleed away from finishing up the whole job. Hopefully I will have some pictures later this week showing off all my winter mods.

  7. #16


    All right finally finished and photographed, first I'll do a little how to on the new style XB shifter:

    If you are considering the XB shifter, then you are most likely looking at rolling your own rearsets. The XB style will be of no use to the stock footpeg location.

    Before starting -
    Remove the original footpeg arms and shifter. I won't cover that here. Check a manual or the forum for other threads on removal if you need assistance.

    Step 1 - Procure all the parts listed on my post above
    - I also got a 5/16" washer to put between the shifter and the primary case
    - Required tools -
    - Electric drill - the metal is fairly soft so it doesn't have to be that powerful (12v or higher cordless or anything that plugs in the wall)
    - 5/16"-18 tpi tap and associated drill bit (.257" - NOT 5/16 " - If you use a 5/16" bit, the hole will be too big for the tap)
    - Allen wrench (5/32) and Socket wrench (7/16)
    - Optional - T-handle tap holder, this will make your life much easier than using a vice grip or other tool to turn the tap itself. They are also fairly inexpensive, under $10.

    Step 2 (Optional) - You can drain the primary case if you so desire. I didn't go through the casting, but your case may be manufactured slightly differently. If you don't drain, at least have a oil catch pan handy.

    Step 3 - Open the long shift arm (the part you actually press with your foot) and the associated mounting hardware.

    Step 4 - Pre-assemble just this lower part and measure the length of the 5/16" that sticks through the shift arm - it should be ~9/16"-5/8"

    Step 5 (Optional) - Find the center point on the primary case mounting lug and pre drill pilot hole with the 1/8" bit about 1/2" deep - If you cannot judge depth wrap a small piece of tape around the drill bit about 1/2" up from the point and stop drilling when this is even with the outside of the case. This will help as the larger bit's broad point may want to "walk" on the metal, making it difficult to drill in a precise location. It will also help keep the larger drill perpendicular to the lug (if your pilot hole is, anyway) as the large bit will tend to follow the path of the pilot hole. I HIGHLY suggest you do this step.

    Step 6 - Take that measurement from Step 4, add 1/8" and measure this distance up the tap drill bit. Place a marker tape or stop collar (if you have one) on the drill bit so that you drill deep enough, but not too far.

    Step 7 - Drill your hole in the primary - try to keep the drill perpendicular to the surface of the primary so the bolt goes in straight later. The most crucial time is just starting the hole. I pulled the bit out and blew some of the metal filings out periodically so the buildup would not clog the drill.

    Step 8 - Ensure hole is relatively free of filings and use your tap to thread the hole. When you reach the end, do not tighten it in like a bolt, you can make yourself a nightmare doing this. Blow the filings out of your newly tapped hole and thread the tap in a second time to clean up the threads. DO NOT FORCE IT TO START!! Use your fingers and start the tap in the existing threads or you may cut another set. THIS WOULD BE REAL BAD. Blow the hole out until there are no more filings.

    Step 9 - Install the new parts! As I said before, I put a washer between the primary and the shifter so the shifter would not rub on the primary case at all. As far as torque, I just made it all snug. You don't need to wrench down on the allen holding the small arm on the spline shaft. The bolt holding it on runs through the groove on the shaft and the small arm will not come off as long as a bolt is in the hole. Remember this if you ever disassemble the setup.

    See below for how I laid it out - you can adjust the position of the toe peg by choosing different splines on the shift shaft and fine adjust using the collar on the linkage.

  8. #17
    Gearhead krjoseph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Looks great. I really need to do that once I get some money. The old S3 shifter works, but feels sloppy sometimes.

  10. #18


    My rearsets follow pretty much the same method of assembly as krjoseph, but the plan I used is a little different. My pegs are back about 7" up about 2". I may publicize the plans in the future if there is sufficient demand. There are a couple changes I made from the plan while constructing them. As drafted, the brake side will not work and even the final product has a compromise that I could have designed out. I'm not sure yet if I will post them, for liability reasons, the end user would have to make the judgement of suitability. Even then, we live in an overly litigious society, so we will see.

    Other differences include swapping out the original brake line for a braided stainless unit, different shift mechanism (outlined above), and re-using the stock brake pedal (w/ some changes).

    Anyway, feel free to ask questions. Enjoy the pics:

    All shaping done using jig saw, dremel, grinder, and drill press. Finish is raw polished aluminum.

  11. #19
    Gearhead krjoseph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Nice job. You say your rear brake is not working well? Looks like you have quite an angle in the rod that pushes into the master cylinder. My brake lever bolt is farther back than the pegs, I tried to keep it in a straight line.

  13. #20
    Gearhead 25PSi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
  14. Default

    Looks good, dude!!! How did u machined those nice brackets for both sides?

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