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  1. #1
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    Default Fix your transmission.

    Generally when you have difficulty shifting it is due to the shift drum pins coming loose and extending out to far, and at places the pins at different lengths. The other problem that can arise from this is that the the pins push against the detent plate and crack the detent clip, or it comes completely off. Third scenario is that the detent plate is worn, cracked, bent or damaged in some capacity, or has come loose, and is preventing shifting. If replacing the detent plate, clip and adjusting the drum pins do not fix your problem, you most likely have a considerably more daunting task on your hands of replacing the Drum etc.

    Detent plate:



    Detent clips (being installed over detent plate)



    First, you will need a new detent plate, two detent clips and a transmission and transmission cover gasket. All cheap.

    Second, remove everything in front of the transmission case (if you have the stock arms). You can remove the shifter by various means, at stock I used the back of a hammer and a rag to protect the case.

    Third, remove the clutch inspection cover and then use a fine flathead screwdriver to remove the clutch piece.

    Fourth, remove all of the bolts around the case and gently pry off the case off. I leave the clutch cable installed and just let the case sit below the transmission. You can now take off the chain guide and set it aside. You will also need to remove the circlip holding the clutch innards in to get to the bolt.





    You'll see something like this: (minus the piece of steel)



    More later.
    Last edited by pierce; 04-06-2012 at 11:55 PM.

  2. #2
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    Once you have it open, you will need to remove the clutch basket. The stator side (right in the picture needs a 1 1/8 inch big ass socket attached to a breaker to remove.



    However, in order to keep it from just spinning you will need a 4 1/2 inch piece of steel. I have found that the end to a 4.5 inch U-bolt works great. That is the piece of steel in two pics above. Wedge it between the teeth and then you can get the bolt off.

    In order to get the other side off you will need a big thin socket sized as 30mm. It needs to be thin as the bolt is in the recess so the socket needs to fit into it. It rotates the 'wrong' direction (it is reversed threaded). Turn right to loosen it, so you will need to reverse the piece metal between the teeth.



    You can now slip the entire basket off and lay it aside. You will be left with this:



    clutch basket:



    Stator is on the left, clutch on the right. The picture shows third gear. This is what you will need to be in to do shift pawl adjustment. so the hole in the detent plate lines up with the shift fork (behind the detent plate, which grabs the drum pins when shifting).
    Last edited by pierce; 04-06-2012 at 11:51 PM.

  3. #3
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    Now you just need to remove the old detent clip (shown in the first clip) and remove the detent plate to expose the shift drum pins.



    You need to make sure that the shift drum pins are no more than 8.5 mm out, and they should be as even as possible. Use a small hammer to tap them in. You can use a dab of loctite to hold them in if you would like.

    Done with shift drum pin adjustment. Its all easy from here.

  4. #4
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    Now place the new detent plate onto the shift drum pins and lock them in place with the new detent clips. I am awesome so I put two on, but not everybody can fit them both on. Most only have room for one. The idea is that you want the detent plate as tight as possible. This keeps shifting smooth and easy (as can be on a clunky transmission). You can see this in the first post.

    Now as you are in third, place the proper drill bit through the hole in the detent plate and adjust the shift fork so it rests on the bit. Tighten the bolt holding the shift fork to keep it in place (obviously loosen it first so you can adjust it).

    Shift pawl done.

    Now just reverse order everything.

    Just a few tips, there are two spacers that almost everyone seems to get confused about. They button everything up, and then notice two little spacer that fell out of somewhere. There is one on the left, and one on the right. That is where they go:





    And lastly, it is often a pain to get the shoe guide back on with the spring. I have found that its really easy by using the U-bolt tool to leverage the spring down and then just slide the shoe right in. Easy.


  5. #5
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    Now just remember to do a clutch adjustment, and primary chain adjustment after all is said and done. You should shift a thousands times better now.

    Enjoy and go ride.

  6. #6
    Whored Hot Chili Pepper RayDog26's Avatar
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    Dude awesome write-up...Thanks !

  7. #7
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Way goodddddddddddddddddddddddddddd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
    EZ

  8. #8

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    can you remove the 30mm clutch bolt in third gear? i put it in third when started the whole process. Or does it need to be in first for this?

  9. #9
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    No - Third - its doable - thats not the really high torque bolt - its just reversed. The stator bolt is a high torque bolt the new number 200ft-lbs - I shit you not - valadate with tubers, or perhaps a 2010 manual - we need one of those as well.
    WZ

  10. #10

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    I am in awe and my faith is reinstated in my fellow Blasters. That is f-n awesome. Very cool write-up and better pictures than any manual I've seen!!!

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