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  1. #1
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    Default AEM a/f gauge install questions

    Im wiring in an aem afr 30-4110 on my blast. Obviously this wasnt really meant for a bike but the instructions leave me a little confused. Obviously i have power and a ground, but what is the (white 0-5v output) for? Do i need to hook this up to something specifically? I know on cars most of the time this is spliced into the ecm harness. I tried running it with the white un used and it keeps tweaking out and doesn’t seem to work properly. But i do need to replace the o2 sensor (Theyre known for being bad from the factory)

    Heres a link to the instructions for the exact model i have.
    https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/avm-30-4110.pdf

    Thank you for any and all help!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 83E3DB0C-8C44-4CD0-A9E2-BA7C036569AB.jpeg  

  2. #2
    The Boss
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    White and Blue are for optional external uses. Just cap those and you have everything hooked up properly.

    Remember this is a single cylinder, so at idle or low rpm it may be a little erratic due to time (and lack of exhaust) between exhaust valve events.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet-Lee View Post
    White and Blue are for optional external uses. Just cap those and you have everything hooked up properly.

    Remember this is a single cylinder, so at idle or low rpm it may be a little erratic due to time (and lack of exhaust) between exhaust valve events.
    Thank you! I figured it would be a little off at idle but didnt know how much, I re-wired the positive and grounds to a switch (ground was poor) and got the new sensor today. I’ll upload pictures of where i put the o2 sensor tomorrow. Its right above the p clamp (because it says to keep the sensor 18” away from the head) i was wondering if i put it to far down because i saw on another thread someone put the sensor right after the first bend.

    - - - Updated - - -

    @jet-lee what is the ideal afr im trying to get? I have 48-175 in it now, yost kit- blue needle 2nd clip from the top with a supplied shim. Im waiting on a 46 to come in the mail. Idle is around 12. At full throttle its at 10(lowest it reads) and cruising im around 11-12. Im trying to be around 13 right?

  4. #4
    Racer styxnpicks's Avatar
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    your pretty rich every where. shoot for somewhere between 12.5:1 and 13:1 hauling ass at WOT swap the main out rinse repeat till your in this range.

    best idle is going to be around 13.5:1 with a carb set this with the idle mixture screw

    make sure the engine is warm and been running briskly for at least 15-20 minutes before really paying attention to the a/f gauge otherwise it'll read rich due to a cold motor.
    Last edited by styxnpicks; 09-15-2020 at 01:03 PM.
    Buell XBlast: NRHS Xb Stage 2 lite, 515 10.5:1, .551 cam, Daytona Twin 1005s-Ex, Vance Hines, Crossroads Fork Brace + Rearsets. Pirelli Rubber
    Buell XB9r: Race ECM/Muffler. K&N

  5. #5
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    I would aim for the lean side of Styx's chart.

    The Blast has a crappy combustion chamber (15º piston, 10º head) that requires it to run rich to prevent knock. If you had piston/head work done with a matched squish, your targets would be closer to XB's at 14.5 idle/cruise, 13.5 WOT.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  6. #6
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    You guys are great! Thank you! Today i went to run some errands, the bike was about 11.5 at idle, 12-13 cruising, and 10-11 at wot. Im still waiting on the new main to come in- should be here tomorrow. Once i swap that out ill see where its sitting.

  7. #7
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    Alright guys. Im stumped here. For some reason, after i switched my jetting from a 48 to a 45 (still 175) its running even richer than it did before. I just went riding around my town a little bit (almost got hit by someone cutting across 3 lanes without even looking) I did not hop on the highway and really get on it at all so im not sure how the top end is. But low end is definitely rough. Mid range wasnt horrible, was around high 11s. So should i move the clip on the needle one position higher? That would put it in the top position of the blue needle

  8. #8
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    I found the Yost needles to be too rich, in the end. Try going back to the stock needle and see how that does.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  9. #9
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    Really? Thats interesting. Why make a kit for a cv-40 if it doesnt work for it? Im also curious on why the jets look so much different.

  10. #10
    Racer styxnpicks's Avatar
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    http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html


    adjust and select the correct main jet first.... this will have the greatest effect right before redline.. but also effects all the way down to 1/4 throttle i've found on my bike each main is worth about a .5 worth of a/f correction right at redline. ymmv

    adjust and choose correct needle clip position/shims next for cruising. after you get the main right this is where your gonna spend the most time to get all of your cruising tuning right.

    adjust pilot jetting after needle and main are right...

    I've put some white out on my throttle grip to mark full closed full open and each 1/4 in betweeen. supprisingly most of my riding is between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. letting the slide and needle do all the work metering the fuel

    yost needles are a recalibration designed for a cv40 carb you would find on a twin. the cv40 for the blast is VERY similar almost identical but the real difference other than the obvious lack of accelerator pump and auto enricher circuit really is really in the needle and slide spring. I've spent some time tuning with different sportster needle and slide springs and have gone back to the blast spring and shimmed needle.

    think of the pilot and main jet as your start and stop points....between high vacuum low throttle opening and high air flow WOT and the needle is the magic in between.



    also keep in mind that a cold engine will run richer. and tuning will change from day to day. one day you might be 12.5:1 the next your 12.8:1

    really anything over 12:1 is pig rich and needs attention. 14.7:1 is what water cooled fuel injected engines are designed to run at for best emissions. I only see numbers there if i'm in over run and decellerating. engine theory doesn't change 12.6:1 is where best power is made. anything over that is wasting fuel too cool the engine and reduce knock (air cooled porsche guys run 11.5:1 wot in their track cars)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jet2.jpg  
    Last edited by styxnpicks; 09-17-2020 at 11:56 AM.
    Buell XBlast: NRHS Xb Stage 2 lite, 515 10.5:1, .551 cam, Daytona Twin 1005s-Ex, Vance Hines, Crossroads Fork Brace + Rearsets. Pirelli Rubber
    Buell XB9r: Race ECM/Muffler. K&N

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