Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread:

  1. #1
    Gold Supporter Torx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    N. Missississippi/West Tennessee
    Posts
    74

    Default New Rider from West Tenn/ North Mississippi

    Hello everyone. I'm a new rider of a 2009 Buell Blast with 707 miles from North MS and East Tenn. area.
    My blast has sat for 5-6 years. Original owner bought it new from a Harley Davidson dealership. I traded a tractor I rebuilt and it took me a lot of forum reading, a service manual and 4 days to get my Blast running. Read about the kickstand lockout and the diode reverse and along with a new boot that looks cheaper and in worse shape than the original one, I got her started. Idles fine sometimes and idles like its wide open other times. Or nice idle, a quick turn of the throttle and it's idling so high that I shut her down in fear of blowing the engine. Sea foam and 93 octane and I'd love to take her out and open it up, but the uneven idle has me scared for my life.
    Looking forward to talking with all you nice folks about your bikes and getting out on the back roads and riding street for first time in ten years. Thanks for all y'all's insights and posts and comments. I have a lot of reading and catching up to do. Like to buy a new and improved boot and any clamps you folks suggest.
    Thanks again for your experience and knowledge for this novice.
    Peace,
    Torx

    - - - Updated - - -

    Bike is all stock except the diode switch and kick stand lockout switch being disabled.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Antioch, Ca
    Posts
    10,880

    Default

    Welcome! Just order a new coupler from HD first, sounds like a bad one - aka - das boot - To replace the "Boot" (Manifold-Carb Coupler),you need to loosen both sides of
    the airbox first....then you can pull the airbox with the carb attached - a
    little bit away -so THEN you can pop out the Boot ! Ok- on the left side of the
    airbox lower down- you locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to
    the triangular bracket that bolts to the block- But DO NOT remove that Third
    Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact ! Then
    on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small
    metal tab on the underside of the airbox- that attaches it to the engine block..
    after that- the box and carb are free to move enough to safely pop off the
    intake boot (manifold connector) and replace with a NEW one. Now time to button
    it back up. When you're done snugging up the boot clamps(don't overtighten and
    shread the rubber!) you Then use "Blue" loctite on the CLEANED threads on the
    lower right side bolt and tighten snugly (the Torque is 10-12 ft lbs)-don't
    strip the aluminum threads in the block. On the left side, the bolts insert
    into a brass(threaded) insert into the airbox, just use ONE drop of (low
    strength)"Purple" loctite on THOSE cleaned threads, and snug them up(Torque is
    3-5 ft lbs)- but don't strip by over tightening. And thats all there IS to it!

    Dan makes a good one, however, a stock one is fine if you are using a stock intake.
    EZ

  3. #3
    Mechanic BrandonSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paris, TX
    Posts
    729

    Default

    Welcome from Texas!

  4. #4
    Gold Supporter Torx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    N. Missississippi/West Tennessee
    Posts
    74

    Default Can i hang head and say uh oh now /

    Quote Originally Posted by ezblast View Post
    Welcome! Just order a new coupler from HD first, sounds like a bad one - aka - das boot - To replace the "Boot" (Manifold-Carb Coupler),you need to loosen both sides of
    the airbox first....then you can pull the airbox with the carb attached - a
    little bit away -so THEN you can pop out the Boot ! Ok- on the left side of the
    airbox lower down- you locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to
    the triangular bracket that bolts to the block- But DO NOT remove that Third
    Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact ! Then
    on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small
    metal tab on the underside of the airbox- that attaches it to the engine block..
    after that- the box and carb are free to move enough to safely pop off the
    intake boot (manifold connector) and replace with a NEW one. Now time to button
    it back up. When you're done snugging up the boot clamps(don't overtighten and
    shread the rubber!) you Then use "Blue" loctite on the CLEANED threads on the
    lower right side bolt and tighten snugly (the Torque is 10-12 ft lbs)-don't
    strip the aluminum threads in the block. On the left side, the bolts insert
    into a brass(threaded) insert into the airbox, just use ONE drop of (low
    strength)"Purple" loctite on THOSE cleaned threads, and snug them up(Torque is
    3-5 ft lbs)- but don't strip by over tightening. And thats all there IS to it!

    Dan makes a good one, however, a stock one is fine if you are using a stock intake.
    EZ
    I removed all 3 bolts from the venturi plastic device. I was careful to replace the gasket on the intake and not use excessive force when replacing the three Torx bolts and cleaned the bolts overnight in sew foam and fuel mixture. There was a fourth bolt that I didn't touch in between the left top bolt and the right top bolt with spacer for the PCV hose. The manual just said to take the entire carb off. I only took it far enough off to carefully remove bottom float chamber and the boot and didn't mess with the linkage or upper carb. I can't find anything in the manual about possible problems from removing venturi and all 3 bolts. The bike started for the 1st time for me after spraying fuel intake fitting and cleaning the jets with carb cleaner and air drying. Please tell me I haven't made a rookie mistake that isn't easily repairable!! I actually read the bolt removal instructions posted here or on another site but was overwhelmed with info that I proceeded like a bull in a china cabinet. I had no loose or leftover parts. If I need to stop and start over now, please lemme know and I'll search for repairing my mistake info and admonish myself by letting any and everyone call me Dad Dumhkolf from now on.
    (Hangs head in shame)

  5. #5
    Mechanic BrandonSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paris, TX
    Posts
    729

    Default New Rider from West Tenn/ North Mississippi

    Take the airbox off and leave it off until you get the bike running - it will save a lot of headache, allowing you to adjust things with ease.

    To cut down on overthinking and causing too much worry, just don't tighten anything down with excessive force. If you try and crank down hard on a bolt you'll screw it up.

    First off, when cold (meaning, the bike hasn't been started in an hour or more) it will idle higher than when the bike is warm. This is due to a device in the carburetor (called the auto enricher) that helps get the bike up to operating temperature quicker. As the bike idles and comes up to temperature, this auto enricher closes and the idle drops to 'warm idle'. This can take anywhere from a few seconds to a couple minutes, depending on how the AE is adjusted.

    Loosen the idle crew. You want to back this bolt all the way off of the throttle cable plate, then tighten it until the throttle plate inside the carb just begins to open, no more than a hair. See if doing that helps your idle speed.

    Clarifications:
    Throttle plate - butterfly valve inside the carburetor that opens when the throttle grip is twisted.
    Throttle grip - right hand of handlebar.
    Throttle cable plate - on the side of the carburetor, this is the rotating plate where the throttle cables connect.
    Idle screw - on the side of carburetor, Phillips head screw that presses against the throttle cable plate. As the idle screw is tightened, it opens the throttle plate, and vice-versa.
    Last edited by BrandonSmith; 08-28-2016 at 01:02 PM.

  6. #6
    Gold Supporter Torx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    N. Missississippi/West Tennessee
    Posts
    74

    Default Many Thanks Brandon

    I certainly appreciate the over thinking suggestion and I really don't want to cause any more problems.
    I'll also back the idle off completely as you mentioned as this will help me get a grip on the auto-enriched. I'd like to get a grip on it with a pair of vice grips and remove it along with the TPS, but I'm sure that they are part of a greater good that goes beyond me, so I'll be following instructions from anyone who is willing to offer me help here on this site.

    The bike seems to want to start fine one day and refuse to start the next. Friday I was showing off my now running Blast to a female friend and it wouldn't start. I didn't try very hard to start it and we went about our business.
    Saturday as we were walking through the garage, I turned it over and it fired up on the first try and idled for a minute or two, backfired out of the intake and died.

    I haven't messed with the bike since then, but I will be checking my week old NGK spark plug. The plug wire is new as well as a factory brand new coil. Before I take the air box off again, I'd like to get a factory boot, new plug with spares, and some type of a tachometer.

    I'm not familiar with what's available but I saw a tach that looked like part of a guys keychain. I'm familiar with the tachs used at the coil and the plug wire, but anyone know of anything that would be functional for driving without rewiring my Blast?

    Also, moderators , ifi need to be posting in a different category, please let me know and I'll do my best to re-type my questions in the correct forums.

    Thanks everyone,
    TD

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •