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  1. #11
    Noobie Chief Ten Bears's Avatar
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    last night i used my home made wrist pin puller to remove the pin and was able to lift the cylinder from the crankcase, leaving the piston still inside. cleaning the base gasket surface was fairly easy, just a wipe with some carb cleaner





    here's a picture of the puller. basically its a threaded rod, a couple of deep sockets that fit against the wrist pin to push it through, and a larger socket at the other end that the pin slide out into. turn the nut, and it works



    started cleaning the valves with a small brass wire brush, cleaning the combustion chamber, intake and exhaust ports etc. i left the head upside down a left the combustion chamber and ports full of kerosene overnight. today, it should all scrub off pretty clean


  3. #12
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Did you put in new detent plate and two detent clips?
    EZ

  5. #13
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    Oh yeah, me and EZ had the same problem with the Blast wrist pin. We both used a dremel to take off the edge and let the pin slide out easily.
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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  7. #14
    Noobie Chief Ten Bears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezblast View Post
    Did you put in new detent plate and two detent clips?
    EZ
    Nope. I guess I'll be stuck with my Blast shifting as well as it did last year, until I have time to wait for the parts and open the primary back up again... Maybe next winter, then again maybe not.

    The shoe was a little worn, but not bad. The bike has about 13,000km on it. I'm going to order one from Harley, but it will take about 3 weeks to get, so I'll save that for next winter too...
    Last edited by Chief Ten Bears; 03-12-2015 at 06:35 PM.

  9. #15
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    As long as you keep the primary adjustment to the loose side - your good.
    EZ

  11. #16
    Noobie Chief Ten Bears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezblast View Post
    As long as you keep the primary adjustment to the loose side - your good.
    EZ
    I've read 24 in lbs then back off about 12 flats... I think that's what you posted a few times that's what works best? I've seen anywhere from 8 - 14 flats... but regardless its definitely more than the recommended in the manual, which the consensus says is too tight.


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    - - - Updated - - -

    finished cleaning all the gasket surfaces on the cylinder, head, cleaned the valves etc. used carb cleaner mostly along with scotchbrite pads for the gasket surfaces and wire brushes for the carbon in the head, valves, ports. once i was satisfied with that, i rinsed the head and valves in mineral spirits (paint thinner) then rinsed again in just hot soapy water, then blew the head out with the compressor. the cylinder and piston, i just gave the bore a wipe down and did a little scraping on the piston top with a plastic knife. i gave the cylinder and piston a thorough blowing with the air compressor as well









    new base gasket



    the wrist pin wouldn't slide in on its own, so i heated the piston up for a bit with a hair dryer. a little 20w50 on the pin, in the guides and the rod bearing, and the pin slide right in



    new circlip as well. just clip in it, then used needle nose pliers to twist the rest into the groove. i also read that it's best to align the gap vertically rather than horizontally, probably something to do with the up and down motion of the piston



    slid jug back on, then installed the pushrod cover. i reused the base gasket of the pushrod cover, it's a thick rubber piece, wiped it down some, it looks and feels fine





    i'm going to lapp the valves later today, then re assemble the head and install that back on the bike. with any luck, i'll be starting the bike later tonight or tomorrow morning

    Last edited by Chief Ten Bears; 03-13-2015 at 01:02 PM.

  13. #17
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Nice - you've really been working that puppy - what stoped you from a 515cc kit or hi comp piston?
    EZ

    - - - Updated - - -

    As for flats - 14 to 21 is the new zone - always make sure the bolt is not touching the shoe, the flats out from there - lol
    EZ

  15. #18
    Noobie Chief Ten Bears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezblast View Post
    Nice - you've really been working that puppy - what stoped you from a 515cc kit or hi comp piston?
    EZ

    - - - Updated - - -

    As for flats - 14 to 21 is the new zone - always make sure the bolt is not touching the shoe, the flats out from there - lol
    EZ
    i was thinking about it, but in the end i'm happy with the Blast for what it is: a simple no frills motorcycle. i've had bikes with computers and technology and this and that, but the Blast, the Blast reminds me of motorcycles of old. you start it up, it shakes and smells and makes loud noises, and you ride it. i find it to be motorcycling in its most simple, pure, and fun form. it has a soul. so for that reason, i just decided to keep things stock, any major performance upgrades and cost, i'd probably rather put that money into another motorcycle.

    - - - Updated - - -

    so yesterday i had a full half day to work on the bike. i started by doing a valve job. some lapping paste, a lapping tool, and off i went







    results. i've seen some where guys will grind until the whole seating surface is bare, but i've always known and done it where you have a nice even couple mm silver band, that seats and seals properly. i thoroughly rinsed the head again in mineral spirits, then soapy water, and blew out with compressor to make sure head, ports and valve guides were 100% clean after the grinding





    next was head reassembly



    new, better softer and 1000x better sealing viton valve seals



    valves, seals, springs, seats and keepers all installed. measure and make a mark .25" from the top of the valve guide. you use a 7/16 socket to lightly push down the new seals to install, stopping at the mark you made once the bottom of the new seal meets it. a little oil in the valve guides and the stems, as well as the valve seal top before sliding the valves in





    gave the head another wipe down and blow it out with compressed air, time to put back on the bike. new james mls head gasket. note, no dowel o rings required





    mls head gaskets require a different torque procedure than the oem composite head gasket from Harley. the james kit has those instructions in it, you still put some light oil on the threads, and on the bottom face of the bolt, and torque in the same order/sequence, but the values and steps are a little different. you torque all 4 bolts to 1 spec, then again to another, and another, then finally your last value which was about 42 ft lbs if i recall ( i don't' have the sheet in front of me...). also, note the rivets keeping the 4 layers together on the gasket, make sure these clear the mating surfaces otherwise you can trim them off. they were fine on the blast



    front isolator re installed, tie rods re installed on the head and re tightened on the front frame joint



    new james rocker box gasket



    i cleaned up and again blew out the rocker box with compressed air, making sure the oil galleys from the pushrod cups to the middle of the rocker arm holes were clean and clear. rocker box re installed and torqued to spec to bleed down the lifters. also make sure the pushrods are seated correctly. i also like to make sure i can spin the rods with my fingers after i've torqued down the rocker box





    last but certainly not least, the rocker cover with new fibre and copper seals under the bolts



    job done. today, i'll be removing the wheels to install new tires, then replace the front brakes as well as bleed the brake fluid

    Last edited by Chief Ten Bears; 03-14-2015 at 03:53 PM.

  17. #19

  18. #20
    Noobie Chief Ten Bears's Avatar
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    long day yesterday... first up, installing new tires. i ordered a pair of Shinko's in the factory stock sizing. Shinko SR568 for the rear and SR740 for the front



    using my bike stands, up goes the buell and off come the wheels. taking the wheels off is very straightforward as per the service manual





    to break the bead, i used a combination of large c clamps and a series of 2x4's under the edge of my deck, like a large lever, to push down on the bead. the front bead broke easy. the back one? damn near impossible. i was ready to hacksaw the tire off... but i eventually got it. using several tire irons and rim protectors, as well as plenty of lube, i got the tires off. once off, i gave the rims a quick wipe down/clean







    installation went ok. both new tires went on ok. to set the bead, i set my compressor at about 80 psi, and removed the shraeder valve and just put the air nozzle into the valve directly. front tire took a few tries to pop, rear tire set first time round. i used a bit of soapy water to lube the bead to help it set. both tires installed. also, for the rear, because of the big horkin drive pully, i removed the brake rotor on the opposite side so i would have much more room with the tire irons. i reinstalled the rotor when complete as per the manual (threadlocker, star pattern to torque)



    wheels back on. i cleaned the axle's, and used some antiseize on each axle as well before sliding back into the wheels



    i needed new brakes for the front, so i ordered up a pair of EBC organic kevlar pads. i prefer organic for everyday all purpose riding. sintered are nice and do provide that instant 2 finger stop, but i prefer the linear feeling of organics, again for every day riding. plus, you can get them wet and still stop. installation was easy, slide them in each side of the caliper, and just make sure the top clip is aligned in the top of the caliper, i had to remove the caliper again to fix the clip



    thats where i called it quits yesterday. it got up to about 14 C yesterday, and i could hear countless motorcycles all day in the background, it was our first official day this year weather wise and everyone was out. but, i can only do so much in the day and i knew today was supposed to be even nicer, so i got up early this morning, watched my PVR'd Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix, then headed back outside to finish the bike.

    today i didn't have to much further to go. first up was installing the footpeg frame brackets, i had removed them to respray



    then it was getting everything back installed on the bike. airbox, reattach carb with new gasket, new sparkplug, some dielectric grease in the wire, stuff like that. also installed a new regulator since i did the stator





    finally, with everything on, i filled up the bike with some fresh 20W50. i remounted the gas tank, connected the plumbing, and was ready to start the bike





    the bike came to life instantly, with nary a burble or hesitation, nothing. just instant life, and i don't think i've ever heard it idle so nicely. i let it warm up for a bit, and got down and started looking for leaks. none. excellent. got out the multimeter to check the battery. at idle a full 14.5 V. perfect. suited up and went for a shakedown ride. no issues. so i went out for my first ride of the year, it was 16 C today and it felt great to be back on the road. the Buell runs like a top.





    i've still got some more things to do, minor stuff. i have to install my newly implemented breather catch can, as well as the fuel breather tube, i still want to bleed the brakes, and maybe even spray the frame still, maybe on a rainy day when i can let the bike sit

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