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  1. #1
    Commuter xtremeboost's Avatar
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    Default project ALICE!

    Guess I should do this since it appears this may actually work.

    The goal: turbocharged buell blast keeping the bike as stock as possible.
    Searched the papers, ebay, craigslist for the cheapest blast near me. Talked the guy down to 800. Click image for larger version. 

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    It was bone stock except the Vance n Hines pipe w/ 16k miles. Not really taken care of and never washed

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Commuter xtremeboost's Avatar
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    Default

    Tore down and ready for the transformation

  4. #4
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Default

    Don't forget pictures - so others can follow your footsteps!
    EZ

  5. #5
    Commuter xtremeboost's Avatar
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    Default

    They r coming I'm waiting a little in between pictures to try and make a actual time line I guess

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    Intake and exhaust test fitted

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    Parts list so far:

    Ihi rbh31/vz21 turbo w/ flange kit

    Exhaust
    manifold side
    1.88 180 bend
    1.88 90 bend
    1.5 90 bend
    1.5 to 2 cone reducer
    dump side
    2" 45 bend
    2- 2" 90 bends

    If I hade to do it over I would make a short 90 coming out of the turbo instead of the 45. It caused major clear prob w the one flange bolt.

    intake
    this is the easy part
    1.25 to 1.75 silicon reducer in 45 and 90
    Cut down to fit

    Oil pressure
    But the kit from Kinga wa turbo and get a shorter line

    Oil return
    I tapped the cam cover, cut and tapped provided oil return flange for 3/8 pipe thread
    Use parker brand forged 3/8 pipe 45* streets you need 2
    And 2, 3/8 pipe male to 5/8 hose fittings
    Turn till they line up and add a hose

    I made 2 special brackets
    One to hold the turbo in place and one from the carb to the turbo. I'll add pictures of them a little later.

    other goodies twin tec ignition, ignition coil, and model timing cup
    use a pressure switch they recommend as a voes
    I cut down a Rb20 universal 7psi wastegate actuator and used the stock wastegate flange

    More updates to, come

  6. #6
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Why the cam cover - the frame or T ing a to the pump - but that will just slowly over fill the primary.
    EZ

  7. #7
    Commuter xtremeboost's Avatar
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    Doesn't it return from there into the scavenge side of the pump?
    The cam gears have to be oiled and drain somewhere

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    The frame would have been nice but I didn't want a electric scavenge pump if I didn't have to. T-ing into the scavenge line between the tank and pump I'm afraid would back feed into the turbo. There is a little push there

  8. #8
    Super Moderator ezblast's Avatar
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    Then perhaps the other side of the pump?
    EZ

  9. #9
    Commuter xtremeboost's Avatar
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    Yeah maybe. Uh it's done now. Once it's tune I'll give it a durability test this and next weekend

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    It seemed easy at the time. Drain it into the factory drain was my theory.
    I still need to add a cooler I'm not crazy about hot oil in my system. It SO small an amount of return I don't think it should give me to much prob. I'll put the cooler in the scavenge to cool it before the tank. Standard h/d practice. I might end up with water injection referenced off of oil temp before it's all said and done but that's a whole other cup of tea

  10. #10
    The Boss
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    Jet-Lee's Avatar
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    Default

    Drain into the cam cover is perfectly fine provided it flows enough for you.

    That's where the oil from the head drains to.

    Running the anywhere else poses issues:
    -Pumping up through oil drain puts hot oil at the reservoir outlet to the engine - not good
    -Pumping into the stock return line using a T puts two pumps on one line. They'll pressurize against each other and eventually one or both will fail
    -Drain to T in stock return line pre-stock pump - Why??
    "It is impossible, until some crazy son of a bitch has the audacity to believe that no matter what the expert says, I can still do that shit." - C.T. Fletcher

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